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服裝

2021 硬派工裝風持續當道!搞定 OOTD 之餘,一窺這超帥氣潮流穿搭的特色魅力!

近年各國興起穿工裝的熱潮,年輕人們紛紛穿上各種單品來塑造所謂「街頭」風格,其實工裝大致上可以簡易分成美系與日系的不同。本篇就讓搭編帶你更深入認識工裝的來源與特色吧!

歷史

19 世紀的工業革命、美國淘金熱、獵人狩獵活動等,都催化了工裝的誕生,因為在從事上列相關活動的時候需要常耐髒、耐磨又方便的服裝來讓工作進行得更加順利。美式工裝的源頭廠牌不能不提的是 Carhartt 和 Dickies,一為最早為工人、農人提供全套服裝的品牌,一為二戰美軍指定用服。

(圖片來源:Pinterest

而在 1993 年日本設計師西山徹創立了 WTAPS ,並融入了軍裝的元素。要論美系與日系的最大差異,那就為美系更為剛強、線條堅硬,而日系工裝在剛中帶柔,可以讓工裝看起來更加日常。

(圖片來源:Pinterest

 

特色

1 . 耐磨耐髒

為了創造耐髒耐磨的衣服,當時多用厚磅數的藍色牛仔布來製作,有一說是因為深藍色髒了看起來比較不明顯,很耐髒,而另一說則是因為藍色染料最便宜,也是因為這樣,工人被稱為「藍領階級」( Blue-collar )。

(圖片來源:Pinterest

 

 2 . 多口袋設計

通常工裝上都會有很多口袋,不管是工裝背心、工裝襯衫還是牛仔褲都一樣,目的是為了讓穿著者能空出雙手做事,而且通常這些口袋都是容量大的風琴口袋,不同口袋也有專門用途,例如裝筆、裝香菸,獵人的背心甚至有一個胸前的口袋可以裝小型的獵物,或是現在幾乎每件牛仔褲在右邊口袋還有保留的一個小口袋,那是拿來裝懷錶的。

(圖片來源:Pinterest

 

 3 . 寬鬆俐落

太緊的衣服當然不適合工作,因此通常工裝都是寬鬆的,而因為使用的布料硬挺,所以整體也看起來比較俐落一些,而日系工裝則線條不那麼硬派,也比較符合亞洲人身形,不過在近幾年因為潮流的緣故,也開始有品牌製作較貼身、甚至束口的褲型。

(圖片來源:Pinterest

結語:

工裝變成潮流的時間較晚,不過它算是一直低調卻賣得很好的那種衣品,在不同地區也能跟隨需求來改變,融合軍裝、獵裝等功能,可以說是最早的「機能服」吧!外型被不同國家的人改造,但那一股灑脫率性卻依舊存在,若是你也再找一件方便又好看的衣服,工裝會是你的不二選擇。

延伸閱讀:工裝控必備知識庫,帶你認識美國經典品牌「Red Wing 」的百年工藝,鞋身到鞋底都是講究

延伸閱讀:COOL 穿搭講堂| NB 搭工裝已膩?潮流大神 NIGO 靠這「三招」完美演繹 NEW BALANCE 復古跑鞋穿搭!


本文由 Dappei 授權提供

原文:口袋、布料都是學問,一窺「工裝」歷史底蘊與特色,機能與時尚兼具的超強服裝!

10 Comments

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