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潮流社論|傳統設計過時了?編輯開箱奧地利時尚品牌 Published By「Phil’s Third Eye」包袋

由 Christoph Tsetinis、Ruby Wallen 共同主理的奧地利時尚品牌 Published by,運用 3D 技術突破傳統設計的既定限制受人喜愛,不久前,品牌也總算正式發售 Mayzie Bag「鏡像」版本引起全球時尚用家們關注,「流行天后」Beyoncé 更突襲著用為其添力,使品牌頓時間湧入大量來訪率。

不過 Published by 究竟為什麼能成為人們口中的「好設計」,事實上有看過筆者先前專訪的朋友相信都了然於胸。他們的設計概念不僅是思考時尚與建築的美學平衡,製作運用的 3D 打印技術更試圖改變傳統生產繁複的流水線,為行業、為人們提供前瞻性的設計視野。

「我們可以看到從世界各個國家不同年代的許多人配戴我們的作品,總是有某種特定的心態將他們連結起來,如同現代雕塑和工業設計一般。更像是純粹分享對美好作品的愛一樣。」Published by 回答表示道。

更深入的側面解讀,Published by 釋出的物件特徵象徵著一股美學潛力,探究概念性物件在其他媒介的協助下訴說故事的美學,結合物件、文學和原型。如果要筆者舉例這種感覺,就像是 El Último Grito 在 2011 年的《Imaginary Architectures》,將城市的社會、物質和精神要素核心實驗於大眾眼前,不精確、喚起記憶、隱喻、感官的錨點,讓觀者能詩意地去想像「任何事物」可能的樣貌,Published by 毋庸置疑在作品背後展現了交互關係。

當然仔細了解 Published by 是很重要的一件事,鑒於先前專訪廣受好評,筆者也在第一時間聯繫主理人之一 Ruby Wallen 詢問文章開箱方案,很高興 Published by 站在散播美學的角度,答應了這份請求,提供其產品之一「Phil’s Third Eye」讓亞洲讀者們更了解實物的感受。

首要先說說感想,當筆者拆開 Published by 包裹時,即刻抓住了我的目光,因為映入眼簾的是十分有質感的黑色磁吸外盒,其字樣呈現也會隨著光影變化有所不同,整體的設計審美簡潔俐落又相當成熟。

持續向下檢視內容物件「Phil’s Third Eye」,這件光亮潤澤猶如「半完成」般的輪廓塑型,讓我在其涵蓋的細膩抽象程度、材質、形式、比例、類型學有了不同想像,體現出與時尚、建築攸關的美學主題。這也讓筆者想起他們先前告訴我的一段話「Published By 不是關於我身為設計師,而是關於人們。就像是包袋的反射面,應該是由人們自己去看到自己及週遭。」Published By 留下這份足以令人反思的回答。

然而再度令我驚豔的是,在這外觀由鉻和納帕皮革(nappa leather)組合的石形包底下,內部以柔軟絨毛面料構成的空間,摸起來手感十分溫順,另其附帶的背袋鍊條,更可以在內裏橢圓造型中吸附,收納方式具有相當的實用性,並非虛有其表。

值得一提的是 Published by 這款「Phil’s Third Eye」,實際上有兩種詮釋方式,一者可以通過黑色納帕皮革的調節進行手提,二者可以用內裏的銀色鍊條詮釋個人造型,從日常風格的角度來說,無論是獨特性外觀與實際應用都相當卓越。

其實在 Beyoncé 掀起新一波話題之前,獲獎無數的英國女歌手 Dua Lipa 也曾在個人 Instagram 展示對 Published by 包款的喜愛。不過名人效應只是附加的,Published by 早已憑藉開放的想法將美學輸出全世界,並始終堅持自己的設計,誠如他們所言:「要將這些新事物傳輸給一般大眾,你就必須教育人們,讓他們了解並且接受。」這點,也確實充分的反應在人們於網路留下對 Published by 的正面好評。

最後老話一句,關於他們的美學,筆者認為不需要解釋得太明白,因為其作品蘊含著一片技術詩意的風景,完全別於傳統包袋的體現,相信讀者們認真觀察便會發現 Published by 無窮無盡的創意潛力。

除了 Phil’s Third Eye 設計包款,Published by 也上架多款值得留意的包袋,感興趣的朋友不妨前往 Published by 進行挑選。

Published by / English version)

Austrian fashion name brand Published By as co-managed by Christoph Tsetinis and Ruby Wallen uses 3D technology to break through the existing restriction of traditional design and is loved by people. Not long ago, this brand also officially launched Mayzie Bag “Mirror Image” version that aroused the attention of the global fashion users. Pop diva Beyoncé even used it to add to her style which resulted in the swarms visit rate of the brand.

But exactly what makes Published By the ‘good design’ as praised by people? Those whom read the previous special interview would have understood. Their design concept not only consider the aesthetic balance between fashion and architecture, the 3D printing technology used in production even attempts to change the complicated production flow line, creating the forward-looking design vision for industry and people.

“…as we can see like many people from all countries around the world of different ages wear our pieces but they always have a certain mindset that connects them like modern sculptures architecture and industrial design. You know it’s just more like the pure sharing of love for great pieces.” Published By replied.

To interpret further, objects released by Published By symbolize a potential force of aesthetic, exploring conceptual objects under the assistance of other media in telling the aesthetics of stories that combine the object, literature and prototype. If author is to make an example for such a feeling, it would be like the Imaginary Architectures of El Último Grito in 2011 in which the society, material and spirit core elements of a city were presented in experiment in front of the public that the vague, memory provoking, metaphor, and senses anchor points allowed viewers to poetically image the possible images of ‘all matters’. Published By no doubt displays the interactive relationships behind their works.

Of course understand Published By closely is an important matter. As the previous interview widely received good remarks, author contacted one of the co-managers Ruby Wallen for unboxing program article. We were glad that Published By granted such a request on the account of spreading aesthetics and provided one of their products “Phil’s Third Eye” for our Asian readers to understand the feeling of the actual object.

When author unpacked the Published By package, it attracted my attention immediately. The texture black magnetic outer box was the first image that caught the eyes and the wording presentation changed along with the light; the overall aesthetic design was simple, neat and rather mature.

As I continued with examining the content object “Phil’s Third Eye”, the bright and gloss “semi-finished” contour brought different imagination on the level, material, formation, ratio and typology of the delicate and abstract connotation it covered, manifesting aesthetic theme related to fashion and architecture. This also reminded author what they had told me previously that “I always say Published By is not about me as a designer but it’s about the people. Pretty much like the reflective surface that the bags have, it should be people who see themselves in it…and their surrounding…” Published By left an answer that provoked reflective thoughts.

What stunned me again was that under the chromium and nappa leather combined stone shape bag was a space lined with soft flock material of gentle and smooth texture. The attached chain strap could be stored within the oval space; the storage method was very practical and not merely an appearance.

What’s worth mentioning is that there are two types of interpretations to this “Phil’s Third Eye”. One is by hand-carry through adjusting the black nappa leather; the other is by the silver chain to interpret personal styling. From the angle of daily style, it is quite excellent whether in the unique appearance and practical use.

Actually prior to Beyoncé raising a new way of topics, numerous awards winning British songbird Dua Lipa also demonstrated her favor to Published By bags on her personal Instagram. However, the celebrity effect is only an addition. Published By already exported their aesthetics to the world through open thinking and has been persistent in their design. As they said: “… in order for it (the new things) to be transported to the general public you need to educate people to make them understand and to accept it.” This indeed was also reflected in the positive remarks that people had left on the internet for Published By.

As for their aesthetics, the author does not think require much explicit explanation as the work itself contains technical poetry which is entirely different from the embodiment of the traditional bags. I believe that the readers would find the infinite creativity potential of Published By through careful observation.

In addition to the Phil’s Third Eye, Published By also launches a lot of bag styles that worth noticing; for those who are interested, you may go to Published By to choose.




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