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潮流社論|探討美食與時尚相互關係,獨家專訪莫斯科時尚概念店 KM 20 創辦人 Olga Karput

俄羅斯是一個古老又神祕的國度,也許這一輩子,許多人不見得有機會遨遊俄羅斯,因而對此地美景了解不全。但若從各處細心用其歷史、文化、建築、風景的角度來欣賞如「礦藏」般的俄羅斯之美,不只神秘又奢華,方方面面亦私毫不遜色於任何一個歐洲先進國家。

充滿皇室氣息且歐風十足的「文化藝術之城」聖彼得堡、神似大鍋狀與莫斯科及聖彼得堡並列 A 級歷史之都的「韃靼風情」喀山市、彼得大帝以妻子葉卡捷琳娜命名的「蔣方良原鄉」葉卡捷琳堡、原為寧靜土地卻成為世界著名高科技產業園區之一的「俄羅斯矽谷」新西伯利亞市、雖為小城卻宛如仙境的「貝加爾湖中轉站」伊爾庫次克、坐擁俄國最淒美愛情事件的十二月黨人博物館「邊境之城」赤塔與伯力、地廣人稀卻有如同伊斯坦堡遠望海灣形狀的「東方舊金山」海參崴…從舉例的地理環境不難發現,橫跨歐亞兩大洲的俄羅斯,蘊含的獨到人文環境和獨特歷史脈絡,讓每個人都心神嚮往。

不過在以上富有藝文氣息或莊嚴華麗的文化景點之中,還沒有提及的是首都「莫斯科」。因為在歷經大公時代、沙皇帝國時期及蘇聯統治,這座城市儘管不斷改朝換代,仍然是俄羅斯最重要的城市。且驚的是,面積高達 2510 平方公里,城區住約 1260 萬人,佔俄羅斯總人口 1/10 以上成為歐洲人口第二多的城市;喜的是, 市內有著 96 多座花園、160 條林蔭道,綠化總面積為其 1/3 而享有「森林之都」的美譽,更以克里姆林宮為中心,發展出富有詩意的城市光景與雄偉的北國氣勢。

有如「穿越劇」般的歷史色彩及斯拉夫民族特有的風情,在這樣新舊環境的文化融合下,可想而知才會孕育出列夫托爾斯泰(Leo Tolstoy)、塔可夫斯基(Andrei Tarkovsky)、契訶夫(Anton Pavlovich Chekhov)等形具特色的才華人士。當然,在俄羅斯這種史詩般的質地,不意味著只停留在歷史與文學於世界上的貢獻,事實上,在現今蓬勃發展的時尚產業鏈之中,俄羅斯也有著卓越的表現,就像是來自莫斯科的時尚概念店 Kuznetsky Most 20(KM20)。

來自莫斯科的時尚概念店 Kuznetsky Most 20(KM20)

首先各個產業實體店鋪的人潮與否,通常考驗著店內提出的單品是否符合當下大眾日常需求而決定是否會絡繹不絕,這是自古以來商家們恆古不變的營運課題,亦是為導致「同質化商品」過多的主因。然而於現今越發要求獨特性審美輸出的社群時代,顯然以上這種商業策略令大多數人感到疲乏,甚至失去了「逛店」的樂趣。不過在整體同化的環境中,KM 20 卻非照循傳統經營的方式走,這點讓他們成為俄羅斯時尚用家們共指的必去地標,更成為將世界各方人才串聯在一起的生活理念代表。

別於標準百貨商店或零售店通常一脈的經營不同,KM20 走的路線為概念店,所謂「概念店」其屬性便是精心為客戶嚴選產品的商店,包含著美食、時尚、美容、家居或與特定名人有個人串聯等的眾多產品線路,這可以擁有很多跨度,並會圍繞著一個特定的總體主題,延續出創新與獨特兼具的多元美學,提供消費者一種激發靈感、獲取主要訊息,並令其自主放慢購買過程陶醉於其中的場所。

舉如 KM20 以往便通過自行發想主題或大大小小的合作,完整展現了曩括所有經營上絲毫不懈怠的全面性。由知名建築師 Мария Качалова 所設置超過 2,500 平方米的優雅煥白色調外觀裡劃分三層空間,一層,容納時下流行趨勢及富有見解的獨到鞋履,確保進入的人們立即能感受到品牌隨時與時俱進;二層,蘊存設計滿溢的品牌 Raf Simons、Helmut Lang、Vetements、Dries Van Noten、Off-White、Cottweiler、CavEmpt 等悉數納進,並在各品牌間的置位提出不同的轉角特色;三層,則為能夠俯瞰當地外景廣場的品牌旗下餐廳 KM20food ,給予人們在買好買滿逛累之餘,提供其雅致愜意的空間享用美食之興。

相信各位也能夠想像得到,城市或街頭為主題…因應流行文化或採用復古或未來的品牌形塑識別,KM 20 作為涵蓋整個特定時尚、社會結構、文化趨勢所構成的概念店家,不斷將人們帶進如「萬花筒」般的年代宏觀之中,也隨時兼具任何必要的時勢轉化能力。一方面形塑出屬於「個人化」的賣點感受,一方面,又提出屬於特定目標受眾的生活觀點,成功為大眾引入具有新知的價值體系,一環又一環的向外擴散。

這也是 KM 20 為什麼能夠讓 Raf Simons、Virgil Abloh、Heron Preston、Vetements 等設計師或知名品牌願意拋出橄欖枝,也讓許多藝術家們願意以其做為媒介,攜手舉辦各式各樣的展覽及時尚活動,傳達品牌價值和藝術家或設計師身份。所以總體來看,KM 20 的整體概念範疇甚廣,存在的意義早已遠超於單純售賣單品的傳統店舖,完全足以解釋他們從 2009 年創業至今仍然屹立不搖的原因。這點,筆者認為 KM20 也呼應了以往 Joshua Schulman 對現下環境的訴求:「如何培育和尋找時尚中重要的設計師(合作人士),是非常重要的推動。」

KM20food 美食、文化、潮流交互之關係

當然,KM 20 除了以上圍繞於文化的層面構思以外,剛才提及品牌支線 KM20food(近期也開設 KM20 H2O)也是不可不提的一環。俄羅斯作為橫跨歐亞兩大洲,是世界上土地面積最大的國家,飲食文化自然也受到歐洲的影響,15 世紀沙皇定都於莫斯科後,因於皇室偏愛歐式料理,所以沙俄便受到西歐文化的影響,之後又逐漸吸收義大利、奧地利、德國等各國菜式的影響,並結合自身的飲食習慣逐漸發展成「俄式菜色」。

各位若如翻閱 KM20food 的官網菜單,可以看見從主餐到餐點皆別於亞洲菜式有著一番風味。比如烤得焦黑的黑白芝麻全麥黑麵包,看似外表粗硬卻是用低筋黑麥粉揉和而成,易飽、易消化對腸胃十分有幫助。如果朋友們前往享用時,用其再搭配火腿、燻肉同時入腹,相信也是口感絕佳,這在俄羅斯文化中也是最具代表性的食物。

還有不可不提的是,官網表單上面的俄羅斯魚子醬。要知道,其是與鵝肝、松露並列「西方三大珍饈美食」,傳統上是取自鱘魚的魚卵,而俄羅斯的魚子醬主要是來自於黑海和裏海的野生鱘魚子製作,其中又以「裏海產」的魚子醬最受到青睞,在當地與亞洲不同的是,普遍也會將其塗抹到麵包一起食用,吃法上別具特色。此次 KM 20 也有自行推出這個十分有代表性的食品,相信也是值得嘗試的一道美食。

事實上由 KM20food 主廚 Roman Palkin 配置的餐點百般多樣,除了上述兩道建議必試之外,KM 20 的紅黑魚子醬三明治(КМ20 Caviar Heaven)、三文魚羅蘭乳蛋餅(КИШ ЛОРЕН С ЛОСОСЕМ)、意大利蔬菜湯(МИНЕСТРОНЕ 俄國的甜菜湯、羅宋湯也是經典)等等還有許多也都受到推崇。值得一提的是,倘若你身在其中,還能品嚐到「日本味噌拉麵」種類上可謂是相當多元。(還有眾多餐點,讀者們可以自行前往搜尋)

筆者必須另外提的是,KM20food 雖然是支線,不過其精緻擺盤的造型設計儼然呼應了 KM 20 本身。因為「美食」與「時尚」某種程度上是相同的意識消費,如果你對自己所吃的食物十分要求,那麼自然對穿衣也會有同樣思維,正如同 KM20food 用優質的食材與設計端出更好的菜餚,那麼時尚用家與饕客們不斷提及 KM20,也肯定能理解其價值的吸引力。

這裡筆者還要提出藤原浩(Fujiwara Hiroshi)曾經說過的一段話:「如果你是一名廚藝精湛的廚師,那麼便需要耗盡長時間才能接觸到下一層次,同樣換作是單品本身,想到絕佳的工藝性,你也就會想到 Hermès 那般的存在,因為「豪華」就是精湛工藝的代名詞。」各位可以想想裡頭蘊涵的寓意,並套用在 KM 20 本身。

從品牌合作、提攜各領域人才再到美食潮流文化之關係,KM 20 之所以能成功被世界各地的時尚人士關注,相信絕非偶然。為更深入了解這家來自莫斯科的時尚概念店,筆者也很有榮幸的與領導 Olga Karput 展開對談,她不僅是運用智慧帶領 KM 20 走向檯面的關鍵人物,還是 BOF(The Business of Fashion)全球最具影響力的人物之一,最重要的是,她還是一位具有心思敏銳和溫柔禮儀的女性。當然,她每日的整體服裝風格,也讓筆者想起了「時裝女皇」Diana Vreeland 的一句話:「風格就是一切,它能幫助你在早晨起床,幫助你在下樓梯,這就是一種生活」。感興趣的時尚朋友,不妨詳閱以下完整訪問內容。

1.台灣很多人知道 KM20,但對幕後的經營者不太熟悉,請先向大家介紹妳自己以及說明創立 KM20 的過程

嗨,我是 Olga Karput,KM20 的創辦人。我在 2009 年於莫斯科開立了 KM20 並經營該店,網路店鋪以及同名餐廳至今。KM20 是當你到莫斯科時主要看和去的地方。這是一個最精心思考與策劃代表了全世界所有最酷和具才華的事物的地方。我也認為城市中最酷的人們都聚集在KM20。你可以來見見許多不可思議的人類。還有我。

2.提到俄羅斯,我在腦海中想起是一個文化底蘊豐厚的歷史古都,那麼在這座城市長大的人們,又是如何看待「時尚」一詞?

我無法代表所有的俄羅斯人發言,但對我個人而言,時尚一直是我生命中很重要的一部份。我深深相信自己生命的目的是轉化我們國內的時尚產業,而且不客氣的說,我想我辦到了。

3.在妳經營時尚概念店 KM20 之後,莫斯科又發生什麼樣變化?

喔所有的東西!我相信 KM20 是轉化俄羅斯時尚景觀的領導力量。自從我們開店以來,零售,時尚,食物,社群媒體很多事都改變了。我想世界對城市整體的評價都改變了。莫斯科已成為時尚首都及所有文化的中心。俄國人的時尚品味也大幅度的轉化了。我們歷經了巨大的道路,從只喜歡義大利大品牌到懂得欣賞來自全球各地,適合個人,既酷又具才華的真正創意天才。

4.我經常瀏覽 KM20 發現在選品方面有獨特的眼光,但在我看來 KM20 並不只是傳遞街頭時尚的紐帶,還會經營舉辦各類展覽活動,請問對於妳來說培養新一代的審美觀,是一種責任嗎?

當然。我覺得這是最大的責任之一。全新世代和時尚的人們都是被 KM20 發掘的。第一批的男女孩們會跟著他們的祖父母來店裡買他們的第一雙很酷的運動鞋和 Gosha 連帽衣。現在他們長大成人,來店裡開心地穿任何店裡有的商品。我對這批酷新世代感到驕傲。

5.我看見妳還創立了 KM20food,能講一下經營的理念和想要表達的生活方式嗎?

我想我試著運用我的計劃表達的是 360 度的生活方式,無論是食物,服裝,藝術,活動,音樂或家庭派對。而 KM20food 完全表達出我最喜歡的食物和款待方式:美酒選項,新鮮農場蔬菜(我還開辦了個農場以便為餐廳提供最高品質的農產品),健康的食物組合,各種超級食物包括我自己產品線的冷榨果汁,生純素甜品與烈酒。我認為那不僅讓 KM20 是個購物的好地方,也是個你可以來打發時間,見見朋友和家人,購物,飲食,交談,歡笑和快樂的地方。我自己就很喜歡。

不騙人的,對我來說真的是世界上最好的地方,我只要在城裡幾乎每天都會待在那兒。

6.如果用飲食的角度,來探討流行文化與之的交互關係,妳會怎麼回答?

我認為它們完全相配。比方說我們常常在時尚設計師與餐廳間進行特別的合作。曾經製作過一份菜單囊括了 Raf Simons,Doublet,Heron Preston,Y/Project,Medea 最喜歡的菜色。結果非常成功。在 2020 年疫情中我們推出了 Vetements 漢堡(當然是純素)而且非常成功到全世界各家分店都要推出同樣的東西。這目前還在菜單上而且一直是賣得最好的品項。現在我們正跟來自首爾的 Ader Error 進行他們自己的專屬空間與菜單。我希望會有一份甜點菜單。

7.雖然在時尚產業開始有許多女性嶄露頭角,不過現今來看還是以男性為主,在妳的創業過程中有遇到什麼挫折?對此又有什麼看法?

我從未遭遇過任何挫折也不認為時尚產業完全是男性領導。我看過許許多多才華洋溢又美麗的女性在引導這個產業。想想 Miuccia,Anna,Sevdaliza,Marine 和其他人。我認為我是其中之一。

8.妳作為 KM20 的中流砥柱,認為什麼樣的合作才能傳達出心中的意義?

我珍惜我們每一個合作。他們都深具才華,準時,思考仔細,而且非常成功。但因為身為同一個社區的我們在去年損失了一位大英雄,我會說我們和 Off White 的空間和特別系列是輝煌燦爛的。我想 Virgil 為 KM20 創作出的 THE TEMPLE 是個真正博物館藏般的品項,而且應該被收入所有的時尚課本中。

9.額外想問一題,眼看現在許多品牌們都開始應用 3D 打印製作產品,像是先鋒品牌 SCRY 到奧地利品牌 Published By 都將 3D 打印應用的相當成熟,妳認為 3D 打印的單品,未來會完全普及和完全實現商業化嗎?

就這個技術來說我覺得自己就有點老古板了。我喜歡感受所穿的每個品項背後的人類手工藝。升級再造的想法和我更加相關。我喜歡 Marine Serre 所做的,自己也很常穿。

10.最後請跟我們分享,如果世界上能有一個屬於妳的城市,它將會是什麼樣子?

在生命此刻,我並不想擁有自己的城市。我對現在所居住的城市感到很滿足。我覺得我所創作的 KM20 就是我的夢想世界,讓我可以充分表達自我。而我不需要更多了。

Kuznetsky Most 20(KM20):

地址:Pereulok Stoleshnikov, 2, стр. 1, Moscow(Адрес: Столешников пер., 2, Москва,)

(KM20 – Olga Karput / English version)

Russia is an ancient and mysterious country.  Many people for their life time may never have the opportunity to visit and therefore they do not entirely understand the beauty of it.  However,appreciating Russia this treasure-like country carefully from the angles of its history, culture, architecture, and scenery, one would find that it is not only mysterious and luxurious but not a slight bit of inferior to any advanced European countries.

Royal atmosphere and European like cultural art town Saint Petersburg; Kazan of Tatar aroma that shapes like a pot and is co-listed as class A historical town with Moscow and Saint Petersburg; Catherina Palace which is named after the wife of Peter the Great and is the home country of Faina Chiang (Chiang Fang-Liang); Novosibirsk was originally a quiet town that turned into the Russian Silicon Valley, one of the worlds renown technology parks; Irkutsk is the transfer station at Lake Baikal that though being a small town but is like a wonderland; frontier towns Chita and Khabarovsk hold the poignant love affair of Decembrists Museum; Oriental San Francisco Vladivostok that is vast and sparsely populated but shapes like the bay of Istanbul; with all these geographical environment we could see that, Russia that stretches across European and Asian continents holds the unique cultural environment and historical context, making everyone yearn to visit.

Among the cultural sites of art atmosphere or majestic, we have yet mentioned the capital Moscow.  Throughout the Grand Duchy era, Tsarist Empire period and the Soviet Union ruling, this city remains the most important city of Russia despite the change of regimes.  Surprisingly, Russia is the city that holds 1/10 of the total Russian population with an area reaching 2510 square kilometers and an urban population at around 12.60 million.  The pleasure is that there are over 96 gardens, 160 boulevards making a total of 1/3 green area and lives up to the reputation of forest capital.  With Moscow Kremlin sits in the center, the city develops into a poetic city view and grandeur northern momentum.

Under the old and new environment cultural fusion brings a style that is special with Slavic people and history that is time-travel drama like, and cultivated Leo Tolstoy, Andrei Tarkovsky, Anton Pavlovich Chekhov et al talents of their own special features.  Of course the epic quality of Russia does not reside only in history and literature contribution to the world.  As a matter of fact, within the thriving fashion industry chain, Russia also performs extraordinarily, such as the Kuznetsky Most 20 (KM20) fashion conceptual store from Moscow.

Fashion conceptual store from Moscow Kuznetsky Most 20 (KM20)

The crowd of the physical store of every industry tests if the product provides by the store meets the daily requirement of the public at the time; this is the everlasting operation lesson of merchants since the beginning and the main reason that results in the overpopulated homogeneous goods.  For the social group that demands unique aesthetics output nowadays, the above commercial strategy makes most people tired and even deprive them of the fun of shopping.  Out of the overall assimilation environment, KM20 do not follow the traditional operation style which makes them the must-visit index of the Russian fashion users and become the ideal life representative that connect all the talents from the world.

Different from the operation of standard department or retail stores, KM20 take on the course of conceptual store, which means they carefully select products including food, fashion, beauty, household or/and celebrity endorsement products for clients.  This mode of operation has multiple spans and surrounds a specific overall theme to extend into innovative and unique diversify aesthetics, giving consumers a place for inspiration to acquire major information, allowing them to indulge in the slow shopping process.

In the past, KM20 already displayed comprehensiveness in operation through self-invented themes or cooperation large and small.  Over 2500 square meters of elegant whitening color appearance installed by famous architect Maria Kachalova is divided into three levels.  Level one contains the insightful unique shoe styles of current fashion trend ensuring people that when enter the space they could feel instantly the brands that move with time; level twois for the brands overflowing with senses of design: Raf Simons, Helmut Lang, Vetements, Dries Van Noten, Off-White, Cottweiler, CavEmpt, and the location of each name brand is given a different corner feature; level 3 is the restaurant KM20food that overlooks the exterior square, offering exhausted and well-harvested shoppers an elegant and cozy space for delicacy.

Believe that everyone can imagine using cities or streets as the theme for shaping identification in coping with popular culture or adopting retro or future brands.  KM20 as the conceptual store that covers targeted fashion, social structure, cultural trend, keeps bring people into this kaleidoscope like era macro-view and carries any necessary transformation capacity for current situation.  On one hand, they shape the selling point that feels like personalization; on the other, they also raise the life view point that belongs to target groups and successfully introduce value system of new knowledge, and spreading outwards ripple by ripple.

This is why KM20 is able to let Raf Simons, Virgil Abloh, Heron Preston and Vetements et al designers and name brands willing to extend the olive branch and making many artists willing to serve as the medium to join hands for various exhibitions and fashion events, delivering brand value and artist or designer identity.  In general, KM20 cover a vast overall concept and the meaning of their existence exceeds traditional stores that sell only one type of product, explaining well why they have been around since year 2009.  For that, author thinks KM20 echo the demand made by Joshua Schulman on current environment, “how to cultivate and search for the important designers (collaborators) in fashion is a very important impetus.”

KM20food the relationship among food, culture and fashion interaction

In addition to the level ideas surrounding culture, KM20’s brand branch KM20food (as well as the most recent KM20 H2O) cannot be left out.  As the country with the largest area in the world and expands across two continents, Russian food culture naturally is affected by Europe.  Since Tsar set the capital in Moscow in 15th century and as the royal preferred European cuisine, Tsarist Russia was then affected by the Western Europe culture and gradually absorbed the influence of Italian, Austrian and Germany cuisine.  Combining with the Russian food habit, the Russian cuisine was gradually developed.

As you browse through the menu on KM20food official website, you can see the courses are different from the Asian cuisine.  For example, the whole wheat black bread with charcoaled white and black sesame looks hard from the outside but is kneaded from low gluten rye power and is easy to fill and digest, which is very friendly to digestive system.  If you go and enjoy it and match with ham, smoked meat; the flavor would be excellent.  This is also a very representational dish in Russian culture.

We also have to mention the Russian caviar on the menu.  Caviar, foie gras, and truffle are the three delicacies of the west.  Traditionally, caviar is the fish eggs extracted from the sturgeon and Russian caviar is mostly produced from the wild sturgeons in the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea; between the two, caviar of Caspian Sea is the most favored.  Different from Asia, the locals savor the caviar by smearing onto bread, which is quite unique.  KM20 promote this representational food and believe it would be a delicacy worth trying.

In fact, the dishes designed by the KM20food chef Roman Palkin are rather diversified.  Besides the two must-tries as mentioned above, red and black caviar sandwich (KM20 Caviar Heaven), laurel with salmon quiche, minestrone (Russian beet soup and borscht are all classics) et al of KM20 are all recommended.  If you are in KM20food, you can also try the variety on Japanese miso ramen (there are also many dishes, readers can go and search).

Author must also mention that though KM20food is a branch, the fineness of their plating echoes KM20.  Food and fashion at a certain level are of the same type of conscious consumption; if you are meticulous about the food you eat then naturally you would carry the same attitude towards what you wear.  This is just as KM20food use high quality food materials and present better dishes.  So when fashion users and gourmets keep mentioning KM20, they for sure understand the attraction of its value.

Here author wants to mention what Fujiwara Hiroshi once said, “If you are a chef with excellent culinary skill, you will need a long period of time to reach the next level.  Same as product itself; when you think of craftsmanship you’d think of the existence of Hermès because luxury is synonymous with craftsmanship.”  You can ponder on the connotation and apply it to KM20.

From brand collaboration, support talents of varies fields to the relationship between food and fashion culture, it’s of no accident that KM20 receive the attention successfully form fashion people around the world.  In order to learn more about this fashion conceptual store from Moscow, author has the privilege to talk to the CEO Olga Karput, whom not only is the key person that brings KM20 to the table with her wisdom but also BOF’s one of the most influential people in the world; most importantly, she is also a lady with sharp mind and gentle manner.  Her daily overall clothing style reminds author what queen of fashion Diana Vreeland said, “Style is everything, it helps you get out of bed in the morning, helps you go down the stairs; it is a living.”  Those who are interested in fashion, you may read closely to the following interview.

1.Many people in Taiwan know about KM20 but are not familiar with the operator behind it, please introduce yourself and the process of creating KM20.

Hi! My name is Olga Karput, I am the founder of KM20.  I opened KM20 in 2009 in Moscow and since then I operate the store, the online store and a restaurant under the same name.  KM20 is one of the main places to see and to be when you are in town. It is the most well thought and curated representation of everything cool and talented that from all over the world.  And I also think that the coolest people of the town gather in KM20. So you can always come by and meet lots of amazing humans. And me)

2. The name Russia reminds me of a historical city with rich culture; for people growing up in this city, how do they perceive the term Fashion?

I can’t talk for all people of Russia, but for me personally fashion has always been a very important part of my life.  I truly believe that my purpose in life was and is to transform the fashion industry in my country and I will not be modest but I think that I did it.

3.After you started to operate fashion conceptual store KM20, what changes occurred in Moscow?

Oh everything! I believe that KM20 is a leading force in transforming the fashion scene in Russia. Since we opened the store a lot of things in retail, fashion, food, social media have changed. I think the whole appreciation of the city on the world scene has changed. Moscow has become one of the fashion capitals and centres for everything culture wise.  Also the fashion taste of people in Russian transformed immensely. We’ve underwent a huge path from liking only big italian brands to be able to appreciate the niche and the cool and the talent of the true creative geniuses from all over the world.

4.I often browse through KM20 and find it has a unique appreciation in selections. To me, KM20 is not just a link that delivers street fashions but also holds all types of exhibitions. Do you consider cultivating the aesthetic of the new generation to be a type of responsibility?

Sure, of course. This is one of the greatest responsibilities I feel. Whole new generation of hype beasts and fashion people was risen by KM20.  First boys and girls would come to the store with their grand parents to buy their first pair of cool snickers and Gosha hoodie. Now they come to the store as adults and happily wear everything the store has to offer. I am very proud of this new cool generation.

5.I saw you also created KM20food; could you introduce the idea of operation and the life style you tried to express?

I think what I’m trying to translate with my project is a 360 degrees approach to a lifestyle whether it’s food, clothing, art, events, music or family parties.  And the KM20FOOD totally expresses my approach to what I like most in food and hospitality: great wine selection, fresh farm vegetables (I had to start a farm to provide the highest quality products for the restaurant), healthy food combinations, all types of superfoods including my own line of cold pressed juices, raw vegan sweets and shots.  I think it adds to the idea that KM20 is not only a place for shopping, but also a place where you come to spend time, see your friends and family, shop, eat, talk, laugh and be happy overall.  And I like it very much.

I’m not lying when I say that this is the best place in the world for me and I spend almost every day there when I’m in town.

6.How would you answer if we use the angle of food to explore the interaction between it and pop culture?

I think they totally match. For example we often make special collaborations between our fashion designers and restaurant.  We did a whole menu with favourite dishes of Raf Simons, Doublet, Heron Preston, Y/Project, Medea.  This was a total success.  IN 2020 during the pandemic we launched a Vetements burger (vegan of course) and it was also super popular and other stores worldwide wanted to do the same.  It’s still on the menu and one of the best sellers of all time.  At the moment we are working with Ader Error from Seoul on their own dedicated space and menu. I hope to get a dessert menu.

7.Although many women start to make their marks in the fashion industry, men are still in the lead. Have you encountered any frustrations during startup process? How do you see these frustrations?

I have never encountered any frustrations and don’t think that fashion industry is totally men lead.  I See lots and lots of talented and beautiful women who lead in this industry. Think Miuccia, Anna,  Sevdaliza, Marine and many others.  And i think I’m one of them.

8.As the team leader of KM20  , What collaborated experience in the past has impressed you and conveyed the core concepts of both teams?

I treasure each and every one of ur collaborations. All of them were very talented, on time, thought through and super successful.  But since we all as a community lost a huge hero last year I would go and say that our space and special line with Off White was magnificent and brilliant.  I think THE TEMPLE that Virgil created for KM20 was a true museum piece and should be in all fashion study books.

9.I also would like to ask that many name brands start to use 3D printing to product products, such as pioneer brand SCRY to Austria’s name brand Published By are all very mature in the application of 3D printing. Do you think 3D printing product would fully popularize and commercialize in the future?

I think regarding this technology I am a little bit old fashioned.  I like to feel the human craftsmanship behind every piece I wear. Idea of upcycling relates much more to me. I like how Marine Serre does it and I wear it a lot myself.

10. Finally please share with us that, if there in the world could a city that belongs to you, what would it be like?

I wouldn’t want to own a city at this point of my life. I’m more than content with the one I live in.  I feel that what I’m creating under the name KM20 is my dream world where I can fully express myself. And I don’t need more.

Kuznetsky Most 20(KM20):

Address:Pereulok Stoleshnikov, 2, стр. 1, Moscow(Адрес: Столешников пер., 2, Москва,)




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