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潮流社論 | YEEZY x GAP 商標被中國搶先申請,中國潮人反省:「國內都做假貨,難怪我們被人看不起」

最近發生的「新疆棉事件」想必大家都知道,不過在這抵制排擠的情況以前,事實上中國一直以來的「製假」就層出不窮,就像是最知名的莆田假鞋,以及其他超高仿製品等。但除此之外,還有一件事情令不少人為之詬病,那就是「侵害專利權」這方面,似乎海外正統各品牌怎麼好聲好氣的規勸 ,都會被該地域的政府機構所退回。

好比說「美國喬丹」V.S.「中國喬丹」雖然前者終於打贏官司,但商標一案仍持續 8 年之久;最近中國還有人先行一步註冊 fragment design 商標,並於天貓商城開設帶有「閃電」標誌的旗艦店,迫使藤原浩本人出來澄清其假冒,可無奈的是,由於這有意人士資料全備妥仍無法於第一時間喝止,使其釋放「假潮能量」還再繼續大幅擴張。

而可想而知,類似這種難以掰正的持續事態還再擴散,因近期這種侵害商標權的舉動,又便直面使另一品牌「YEEZY x Gap」造成衝擊,點燃官方尚未釋出前的危機。

因自從 Kanye West 公開與 GAP 合作消息並公開其「YZY」商標後,中國於去年便有商家即刻申請相關商標權,令人意外的是,仔細一看還有 3 年前就早已申請的案例,且更發生了「YZY 撞標」的狀況。

儘管對台灣所有的潮流人士來說,中國這樣的舉動早已見怪不怪,可這種有利可圖的投機舉動還是令人百般無奈。而說回話題,事實上 YEEZY 被侵權也早已不是第一次了,過去中國地區的商人們,除了自己開設「實體 YEEZY 門店」,擺放大量仿製品牌鞋款進行售賣,更印製帶有 Kanye West 頭像的「YES, it’s」掃碼 APP 查詢功能,「冒用肖像」自己為自己背書。

更扯的是,還有公司發表聲明指道:「自己是 YEEZY 商標在中國唯一的擁有者,將潮流與中國人文風情結合,為消費者提供更有特色的潮流用品。」

當然這如此誇張的行徑之舉,嚴重程度其實也比擬以前 Supreme Italia x Samsung 那波鬧劇,記得 Supreme 的幕後大佬 James Jebbia 當時也按捺不住表示:

這是「品牌同名頂替」的全新犯罪模式如果新一代的消費者認為這是合法的,那簡直就是愚蠢,這絕對是一場可笑的鬧劇,如果你了解 Supreme 就會知道我們很少做宣傳,選擇安靜操作,而這些傢伙正是利用我們的做法並將其利用」。

不得不說中國會大膽的釋出「山寨」,事實上皆全指向「有利可圖」這方向,畢竟自古以來只要一項東西爆火,自然就會帶來龐大的利潤,這是恆古不變的事實。且當供給不平衡導致溢價過高時,「假貨」也就變成為滿足虛榮心的人去尋找的管道。

也許很多人也會靠說:「為什麼品牌不把限量品弄大量,這樣人人就都買得起,不會去買假貨了」?

但這問題其實筆者很早前也提過了,「限量聯名」的根本作用本來就不是賺錢。一是,這是主要展現其品牌本身對於設計的可包容性,並藉此吸收更多元的族群,擴散更多枝節點引起大範圍的潮流效應,二是,如果要營運公司還設下有限數量要怎麼負擔支付成本?所以「限量聯名」本來就是用來刺激慾望,去為相關款反饋出更大量的購買結果。(完整文章可點此

但最後仍必須要說回「中國山寨」,結語初段並非是以偏概全,對岸還是存有不少有良知的人抨擊:「Fake 終究是 Fake」,「國內這種市場環境,怎讓國外大廠牌對我們沒意見」?「真她 X 的給中國人丟臉,怪不得被人看不起」。所以,在這裡不僅要勸告大家別因為虛榮薰了心而買假貨,另外也希望中國商家們,儘管利益在眼前,也別去侵害品牌們的知識產權。

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